Old McKendree Chapel Won’t Let Go

It’s hard to say why Old McKendree Chapel has always been a special place for me. Mother was a Methodist when she was growing up in Advance, but she moved over to the Lutheran side of the fence when she married my dad, so that’s not it.

I never attended any of the chapel’s camp meetings or services, but I still find myself drawn there almost every trip.

Schwinn expanded my world

When I got my Schwinn bicycle when I was 12, my world expanded to include rides to McKendree Chapel over roads that were mostly gravel. I can remember maxing out the speedometer on the steep downhill run leaving the chapel. I think my mother must have had to give special attention to my underwear after that trip.

When I was in high school, I rented a bicycle built for two and took a date on a ride to the chapel. It was our last date. The rule of thumb is that two things will challenge a relationship: riding a tandem bicycle and hanging wallpaper. If I’d have given her the wallpaper test, I could have saved some serious pedaling.

Chapel built in 1819

The chapel site was used by church circuit riding ministers as a meeting place to exchange information and plan for the westward expansion of Methodism as early as 1806. It was built in 1819;  the local circuit resolved in 1869  to repair the building, not to replace it with a new chapel.

In 1933, the McKendree Chapel Memorial Association was founded to preserve the building. It was one of the first preservation groups in the state.

Which is the REAL chapel?

I don’t want anyone to think I actually know all this stuff. Like Wife Lila says, you don’t have to know everything, you just have to know where to find it. I get a lot of my info from Missouri Department of Natural Resources list of National Register Listings.

If you scroll down to the McKendree Chapel listing, you’ll find all kinds of interesting stuff. It’s a large file, so you may have to right-click on the file name and then select Save As and open it later with Adobe Acrobat.

One controversy is whether or not the chapel, with its exposed square log walls is the “real” version of the chapel, or if the building’s authenticity was damaged when weatherboard siding that covered the logs was removed in 1977. When I look at photos that are part of the National Register application, THAT is the church that I remember from my childhood.

I KNEW that there was something different about the building, but I didn’t know exactly what it was.

Good arguments can be made for both the weatherboard facade and for the bare logs we see today as being the “real” chapel.

I was trapped

One of the things I’ve always liked about the chapel is that it’s unlocked. There’s a locked grate over the fireplace inside to keep someone from building a fire, but a simple latch secures the double front door.

On my last visit, I decided to go inside to reminisce and to shoot some fresh interior photos. After I finished, I tried to open the door. It wouldn’t open. It’s supposed to open inward, but there was no door pull to give me any purchase on the door.

The Methodists did WHAT to you?

I tried sticking my knife blade into the crack between the doors, but no luck. I debated trying to take the door off its hinges, but didn’t want to take any chance of causing damage. After struggling for several more minutes, I was ready to admit defeat. Darned Methodists. This is an insidious recruiting technique. Once they get you into the church, you’re captured for good.

My mother was waiting outside in the car. I dialed her number hoping (a) that she had her phone with her and (b) that she had it turned it on. Fortunately, (a) and (b) were true, and after a sort of confusing conversation, “The Methodists have done WHAT with you?” she went after the caretaker who was mowing the church lawn. He opened the door from the outside and agreed that an inside door pull might be a good idea. He denied any kind of religious plot.

Oldest cemetery stone is 1821

On the south side of the road leading to McKendree Chapel is a small, peaceful cemetery with stones in very good condition for their age.

The oldest legible tombstone is for William Hooser, who died at 11 years, nine days, in 1821. The National Register application says local tradition says that he became ill and died during the 1821 camp meeting of the Methodist congregation and became the first internment.

Elizabeth Campbell died in 1865 at 95

I didn’t see William Hooser’s stone, but I did see the marker for Elizabeth Campbell, who died Feb. 26, 1865, at the age of 95. Just think, I was standing next to the remains of a woman whose life spanned the American Revolution AND the Civil War.

Meyer / Suedekum Hardware

Brother Mark said I should stick my head in at Suedekum Hardware on Good Hope to see if they still used old ammunition boxes for storage drawers. “Look, too,” he continued, “for the marks nailed into the floor for measuring rope and chain.”

Nails mark 40 feet

Mark was right. The drawers are still there and the nails still make a convenient way to measure materials.

Why is it called the MEYER BLDG?

I was confused. I grew up going to Suedekum’s with my Dad. He had an office on the second floor of the Farmers and Merchants Bank, so the hardware store was a convenient stop. I had never noticed the terra cotta panel above the door that said MEYER BLDG before.

Chuck Meyer explained it

George Meyer and Herman Schwab established the business, called Meyer and Schwab Hardware Company, in 1900 at 626 Good Hope St. In 1912, W. F. Suedekum purchased Schwab’s share and the operation became known as Meyer and Suedekum Hardware.

In 1916, W.H. Meyer had a two-story brick building erected at 620 Good Hope Street to house the business. Suedekum bought out Meyer in 1926 and the name was shortened to Suedekum Hardware.

The ownership returned to the Meyer family in 1982 when Robert E. Meyer purchased the business and assumed operation of the store. The name was officially changed to Meyer Supply in 1990.

Haarig has changed

The hardware store looks out onto a changed and depressing landscape. A vacant lot diagonally across the street is where the Orpheum Theater stood until the early 1990s. Chuck Meyer said they heard the roof collapse one afternoon. The theater, built in 1917, introduced talking movies to Cape Girardeau in 1929.

The area became known as the Haarig District because of the large influx of German immigrants who came to Cape Girardeau in the late 1840s and 1850s, with another peak coming after the Civil War. A high percentage of them came from Hanover and Brunswick, which created a close-knit community.

Meyer’s offers service, nostalgia

Tom Neumeyer wrote a story headlined Suedekum’s offers variety, service, nostalgia in 1990, when the store was rebranded with the Meyer name.

It still offers the kind of unique service that only an old-time hardware store can provide. Two of the five customers who came into the store while I was there started off by saying, “Lowes sent me here because they couldn’t help me.”

If you have an older house or have an oddball need or just want to talk with someone who has seen and done it for years, this is the place to come to.

Metal ceilings look the same

Many of the features I remember as a little boy are unchanged. The steel columns and metal ceilings are still there. (I read somewhere that the ceilings had been painted in 1957. I don’t know if they’ve had a touch-up since then,)

Rolling ladders still work

I always thought it was cool how the store had ladders that would roll around on rails so merchandise on the high shelves could be reached. The ladders are still there and they still work.

They had an elevator?

I didn’t know until this trip that there was a huge freight elevator in the building. It still works. It looks a lot like the one in the old Walther’s Furniture Store on Broadway (more about that coming).

Gallery of photos from Meyer / Suedekum’s

As always, click on any image to make it larger, then click on the left or right side to move through the gallery.

Jefferson, Oldest Standing School in Cape

I went K through 8 at Trinity Lutheran School, so I don’t have much first-hand knowledge of Cape’s public schools. In fact, it was a bit of a challenge to locate Jefferson School, which turned out to the the oldest standing of Cape’s schools.

Located at Jefferson and Ellis

The school was built in 1904. You can read an excellent history of the school, which includes contemporary photos of the interior by downloading the National Register of Historic Places registration form. It’s a large document, so right-click on the link, then choose Save Link and open the file later with Adobe Acrobat.

Population quadrupled

The Civil War slowed population growth in Cape, but the population nearly doubled between 1900 and 1910, and had almost quadrupled by 1925 to 15,258. Much of the growth was in the working class neighborhoods in the area served by Jefferson School.

The building had four class rooms on each floor, with a central hallway and two narrow stairwells.

Was Black School 1953-1955

In 1953, Cape Girardeau schools were still segregated. Black students attended John S. Cobb School (originally named Lincoln School)  until the school was destroyed by a fire. White students attending Jefferson were sent to May Greene School, and the 108 Black students were sent to Jefferson School.

Bob Miller wrote an interesting piece for The Missourian when classmates celebrated a school reunion in 2004.

When the school system was integrated in 1955, the school was closed.

Became apartment building

At some point, the interior was converted to apartments, with two apartments on each level.It also served as a union hall.

Much of the original wood trim, stairwells and windows are intact. Years of neglect, water damage and vandalism, have taken their toll.

I asked the developer who converted Schultz School into very attractive senior housing if he had considered taking on Jefferson School as a project. He said the building didn’t have enough possible living space to make it practical from his viewpoint.

Gallery of Jefferson School photos

Click on any image to make it larger, then click on the left or right side of the photo to move through the gallery.

Earth Day 2010

Warning: non-Cape, obligatory Earth Day content follows.

When I was working for The Athens (OH) Messenger, I had to produce five photo essays a week. We called it The Picture Page, but it was really a 9×17-inch hole that was given to the photographers to fill during the weekdays. We had to find the subject, shoot it, write a minimal amount of copy and lay it out ourselves.

Deadline was 10 a.m. and I was sucking air. I didn’t have a clue how I was going to fill the space. I didn’t want to be the first photographer to end his career at The Mess by having a 9×17-inch blank space mark his professional obituary.

Please, let there be a picture out there

With the clock clicking down, I was frantically driving around hoping SOMETHING would catch my eye.

Suddenly, this tree popped out of the fog. I knocked off a couple of frames before the light changed, then blasted back to the darkroom. I needed to cut corners, so instead of spending seven minutes using film developer, I used paper developer, which produces more grain and contrast, but only took two minutes. Serendipity kicked in and the technique made the photo better instead of worse.

This and another photo of the park got me off the hook for yet another morning. It turned out to be one of the most popular photos I took in three years at the paper.

Hocking River flood control took my tree

About six months later, I went back to the site to shoot this photo. A flood control project to reroute the Hocking River was going right over my tree. This was the result.

Hokey Poem #22

I was flattered when Carol Towarnicky, a reporter I worked with at The Ohio University Post, wrote Hokey Poem #22, which said, in part,

. . . consider the man.
who records the land.
low-key, like the hills.
gentle, like those who
who dot the country side.

familiar, calm.
he grabs his camera,
squints, clicks, moves on,
nonchalantly.

who ridicules the thought
of an “eternal message,”
yet mourns the passage
of a tree.

I’m sure CT (I called her that because Towarnicky was a mouthful, even for someone with a name like Steinhoff) was rushing to meet a writing class deadline like I was trying to fill a hole on just another work day, but I still hold on to that tree photo and Hokey Poem #22. It’s funny how something seemingly insignificant can mean so much.

The First Earth Day

My  photo of an abandoned strip mine in southern Ohio ran on the front page of The Athens Messenger on the first Earth Day. You can read the whole story about the picture here.